There were a few years over the past 15 that I almost skipped Burningman. Those years I freaked out and went anyway - and loved it. This year I made my big break for it. I am, however, joining a crew of burners for the Greek Water Burn - Pyraegea at the end of the week. It crossed my mind to rockstar it and do both, but in order to avoid temptation I ran off early towards Greece by way of Scandinavia a month ago. I found myself leisure roaming down the lovely Croatian coast during “burn week”. While I thought of Burningman plenty of times this week, I did not find myself missing the action or yearning for the playa. I felt quite satiated exploring the beauty of this place while continually escaping the Mediterranean sun by swimming in the crystal blue waters up and down the coast. I know everyone had a great burn. I felt it and felt a part of it... and this has been great!
Tuesday, September 4, 2018
Unphotobombing
The tourist season from Venice down the Adriatic coast may be slowing down shortly, but it is far from over. I know that I am one and also a part of the horde. At least I am not a group or large family that makes the horde slow down nearly everything to a halt. Extremely narrow streets are particular slow moving behind groups of elderly, children strollers, and the general leisurely saunter of Europeans that enjoy holding hands across the width of the street. I am fine being patient with all of it. I am in no hurry. I don’t blame anyone’s for doing what they are doing.
It does, however get exhausting stopping every three steps while someone is taking another picture, from a different angle, using a different filter, switching out who is in the picture, trying a diffferent set of poses... it will take a whole day to look at at a single days worth of pictures for most of these folks. Everyone is of the belief that the picture of a castle, at sunset, by a beautiful ocean front is better with them in it. I personally like the picture of the scene without needing to be in every one of them somehow building proof that I was a part of it.
My iPhone 5 camera sucks anyway so I might as well take picture of the postcards and call it good. Most postcards capture the images without the massive crowds packed in them as well. I have spent moments “unphotobombing” - literally tryin got to avoid being in anyone screen. Since I have know idea when they are pressing the magic button I assume it’s always being pressed. Pretend like anyone holding a phone or camera up is shooting lasers out of them that will cut your head off if in the line of sight. It’s hard to last long in places like Venice where lasers are shooting in every direction all the time.
It does, however get exhausting stopping every three steps while someone is taking another picture, from a different angle, using a different filter, switching out who is in the picture, trying a diffferent set of poses... it will take a whole day to look at at a single days worth of pictures for most of these folks. Everyone is of the belief that the picture of a castle, at sunset, by a beautiful ocean front is better with them in it. I personally like the picture of the scene without needing to be in every one of them somehow building proof that I was a part of it.
My iPhone 5 camera sucks anyway so I might as well take picture of the postcards and call it good. Most postcards capture the images without the massive crowds packed in them as well. I have spent moments “unphotobombing” - literally tryin got to avoid being in anyone screen. Since I have know idea when they are pressing the magic button I assume it’s always being pressed. Pretend like anyone holding a phone or camera up is shooting lasers out of them that will cut your head off if in the line of sight. It’s hard to last long in places like Venice where lasers are shooting in every direction all the time.
Relaxing in Croatia
It is easy to relax in Croatia. It certainly helps that is has been sunny and warm enabling me to walk or ride a bike around, hike through parks and streets, jump into the delicious sea and nap on the shores. My stays have been for two or three night giving me all the time in the world to wander the area. It’s extreamly beautiful up and down the whole coast. Everything looks like a candidate for an award winning picture. Apparently, everyone finds themselves to be award winning photographers. Sometime I think I am the only one looking at everything.
Zadar, Split, and Dubrovnik are my only stops this time and they are all pretty great.
There is not a place I have not enjoyed which is a bonus since it looks like I will be coming back through after the Greek sail.
Friday, August 31, 2018
Zadar
I picked this place because it was literally the biggest dot on the map on my way to Greece. I took an 8 hour night bus to get here. I regretted that decision almost as I was booking it. The plus side it that I don’t get there late at night in the dark. I did, however, show up at sunrise sans sleep with a heavy head of failed Xanax with empty streets and nothing open excepts for the taxi drivers waiting for people just like me. My 6 block cab ride cost me $20 partially because I didn’t have any local currency, mostly because it’s just a rip-off since they know travelers showing up at a bus station at 5 am do not know that it’s a 10 minute walk to city center. (I did not do any homework).
The center of old town Zadar is Zara. The walled fortress is a no car zone with thin walking streets dotted with roman ruins, a handful of churches, and a long stone boardwalk along the sea flanking the ancient walls. The warer is a clear light blue and I too a dip for breakfast. Afterward, I crashed out on a rock pier until I could drop my bag at my apartment.
It’s an uber touristy platz (mostly Germans), but it also feels safe within the fortress knowing there is a pretty big city outside the walls to deal with. I am content chillaxing here for a couple days.
The center of old town Zadar is Zara. The walled fortress is a no car zone with thin walking streets dotted with roman ruins, a handful of churches, and a long stone boardwalk along the sea flanking the ancient walls. The warer is a clear light blue and I too a dip for breakfast. Afterward, I crashed out on a rock pier until I could drop my bag at my apartment.
It’s an uber touristy platz (mostly Germans), but it also feels safe within the fortress knowing there is a pretty big city outside the walls to deal with. I am content chillaxing here for a couple days.
Coffe shrinkage
While the weather is getting warmer and the beers are getting cheaper, the coffee is getting smaller. My large cups of coffee of overpriced coffee I had in Scandinavia have shrunk into a cup holding three sips.
Tuesday, August 28, 2018
Venice - the city of canals
It’s all about the water in a city made up of hundreds of islands packed together. There are no cars or even bikes allowed in the narrow corridors that cut through the continuous rows of buildings. The waterways that weave around and through this town and it is the only way to get around. Taxi’s, deliveries, police boats, trash pickup, ambulance’s all run through the canals.
It might be the best place in the world to get lost. Everybody is lost. None of the walking streets ever stay going one direction and landmarks are impossible to see in the thin ally’s and five story buildings. You can wind down an ally in ten directions to find yourself coming out into the same huge plaza many times. Everyone is looking at a map or on their phone spinning in all directions trying to get their bearings while surrounded by the never ending chatter of tourists rolling their oversized luggage over the brick streets.
It’s money well spent to buy the day pass that gives you all access ride to the water ferries that go everywhere. When you are lost you can just walk one direction until you hit a larger body of water and jump on a boat.
It is also a great place to sit at sidewalk cafes and bars, relax, watch the crowds, and enjoy the sun. I ran around Venice for twelve yesterday. Today will be more sitting around, reading, playing music, juggling, and waiting to catch my night train out of Italy.
It might be the best place in the world to get lost. Everybody is lost. None of the walking streets ever stay going one direction and landmarks are impossible to see in the thin ally’s and five story buildings. You can wind down an ally in ten directions to find yourself coming out into the same huge plaza many times. Everyone is looking at a map or on their phone spinning in all directions trying to get their bearings while surrounded by the never ending chatter of tourists rolling their oversized luggage over the brick streets.
It’s money well spent to buy the day pass that gives you all access ride to the water ferries that go everywhere. When you are lost you can just walk one direction until you hit a larger body of water and jump on a boat.
It is also a great place to sit at sidewalk cafes and bars, relax, watch the crowds, and enjoy the sun. I ran around Venice for twelve yesterday. Today will be more sitting around, reading, playing music, juggling, and waiting to catch my night train out of Italy.
Directionless
I truly doubt that it is because I look easily approachable, so I assume it must be because I have a look that says I am familiar with the area for so many people to enquire about directions in a place loaded with so many others to choose from. I am most likely the person that is completely lost, yet I don’t care. I think the look of comfortably being lost gives off the energy of knowing where you are. So far , in 6 different countries speaking 6 different languages I have not been the guy to ask, “do you know where we are?”. Especially in Venice!
Monday, August 27, 2018
Warmer and Cheaper
As my journey progresses I am finding the weather warmer and the costs cheaper. In Iceland, I had to wear nearly everything I had to stay warm and paid $16 for a beer. I shed a layer and dropped $14 a beer in Norway. I stopped wearing a jacket in Sweden and enjoyed a pint for $12. I broke a sweat in Denmark and my drink was down to $10. It was a bit rainy in Munich, Germany, but it never felt cold, while big full masses of beer ran $5 ($2 or $3 for a regular size). It’s a warm sunny day in Venice, Italy. I have not had a beer yet, but my glass of wine was $2.
At this rate, by the time I get to Greece the drinks will be free and I will be naked.
At this rate, by the time I get to Greece the drinks will be free and I will be naked.
Munich
I did not plan on returning to Munich where I had spent 2 years going to school from 1989 to 1991. When my friend said he had to go down there for work and wanted to get a hold of of a few other guys in the area I decided to return to my old stomping ground.
Upon arrival I found my way to Englisher Gardens where I spent most of the day relaxing in the sun, swimming down the river and serenading all the other river floaters with my ukulele.
The next day I rented a bike from my hotel and cycled around the whole city including the place I studied long ago. I think I may have seen more of Munich on my bike in one day than I did taking the subway for years.
The 3rd day 4 of us took a trip out of town to an old monastery/brewery in a hill where we spent most of the day enjoying our favorite beers in the beer garden.
I has been a treat spending time catching up its my friends that I have not seem in a very long time. I glad I chose to stop by. Munich remains a beautiful city that will always hold a happy place in my heart.
Monday, August 20, 2018
Rowin’ the Baltic
I am staying in a lovely little cottage on the beach of a tiny island in the middle of Stockholm. Cars cannot get here. (See previous blog) It seemed like it may have been a mistake booking this room.
The ferry runs every few hours and stops by 6pm. That seemed at the very least restricting and concerning. I found that the owners would let me use a small 15 foot wooden oar rowboat to paddle across to the mainland where I could walk 2 kilometers to catch a bus that would get me to the subway.
As soon as I arrived, I jumped on to give it a shot. I was actually interested in trying to catch a concert. I would have been painfully late even had I caught the bus I was chasing. I took the subway to the center of town and got myself acquainted with Stockholm.
It can be challenging finding the right subway line, the right bus, the right stops, and navigate walking through the steets in a foreign city and system for the first time. Try paddling across a channel of the Baltic Sea in high winds in the blackness of night.
Since then I have made the trip twice a day for 3 days and love every bit of it.o
Also, I only have to row 250 meters - but it’s still the Baltic Sea!
The ferry runs every few hours and stops by 6pm. That seemed at the very least restricting and concerning. I found that the owners would let me use a small 15 foot wooden oar rowboat to paddle across to the mainland where I could walk 2 kilometers to catch a bus that would get me to the subway.
As soon as I arrived, I jumped on to give it a shot. I was actually interested in trying to catch a concert. I would have been painfully late even had I caught the bus I was chasing. I took the subway to the center of town and got myself acquainted with Stockholm.
It can be challenging finding the right subway line, the right bus, the right stops, and navigate walking through the steets in a foreign city and system for the first time. Try paddling across a channel of the Baltic Sea in high winds in the blackness of night.
Since then I have made the trip twice a day for 3 days and love every bit of it.o
Also, I only have to row 250 meters - but it’s still the Baltic Sea!
Missed the boat
Airbnb doesn’t not give you an exact location until the booking is confirmed. I have found it to be a bit of a gamble. “Central” can be relative. Central is bigger when you have a car. I have stayed in “central” places where I get to hike 45 minutes back and fourth from downtown.
When I received the directions to my place for 3 nights in Stockholm I thought I may have picked poorly and missed reading some fine print. I did not realize I had chosen to stay on a small island only accessible by boat. I was to take a subway line to the end and find a ferry under some bridge in a very industrial area. It did not look like a place I should be. I stood there for a bit thinking a really screwed this one up with a fancy dress couple show up. My relief to hear that I was at the right place to catch the correct ferry was less than brief when hearing that the last one ran 1/2 an hour ago.
Two other well dressed couples showed up bearing flower and wine. They all though it was bizarre that I would even be staying on this island. As luck would have it they were all going’s to a dinner party in the same island and the host was coing to pick them up in a speed boat. I hopped on board and zipped around to a few other ports picking up couples in their formal wear. I was labeled “the random dude”. They were super cool, amazing friendly, funny, and all gorgeous. I was just lucky.
When I received the directions to my place for 3 nights in Stockholm I thought I may have picked poorly and missed reading some fine print. I did not realize I had chosen to stay on a small island only accessible by boat. I was to take a subway line to the end and find a ferry under some bridge in a very industrial area. It did not look like a place I should be. I stood there for a bit thinking a really screwed this one up with a fancy dress couple show up. My relief to hear that I was at the right place to catch the correct ferry was less than brief when hearing that the last one ran 1/2 an hour ago.
Two other well dressed couples showed up bearing flower and wine. They all though it was bizarre that I would even be staying on this island. As luck would have it they were all going’s to a dinner party in the same island and the host was coing to pick them up in a speed boat. I hopped on board and zipped around to a few other ports picking up couples in their formal wear. I was labeled “the random dude”. They were super cool, amazing friendly, funny, and all gorgeous. I was just lucky.
Workout in Gothenburg
Hiking through the city center of Gothenburg with my full pack in the rain, I was approached by a dozen women as I was heading to catch my train out of town. One of them was wearing a wedding dress and dawning a sache - “Future Bride”.
Future bride: Would you be willing to join us in a fun game?
Me: I would love to!
Cheers went up not just from her gaggle of maidens, but the whole crowd in the square joined the applause. Apparently, it was hard to find an easy “yes” on a gloomy morning.
The game itself was not much of an adventure. I didn’t have to carry her around the block or give her a lap dance... we had a push-up contest in the rain to some Scandinavian rape music. Being the gentleman I am, once I saw that she was collapsing out of the corner of me eye, I dropped onto my back in dramatic exhaustion. I figured I wanted her to start her brand new life off in at least a tie. And I got at least 15 push-ups in.
Future bride: Would you be willing to join us in a fun game?
Me: I would love to!
Cheers went up not just from her gaggle of maidens, but the whole crowd in the square joined the applause. Apparently, it was hard to find an easy “yes” on a gloomy morning.
The game itself was not much of an adventure. I didn’t have to carry her around the block or give her a lap dance... we had a push-up contest in the rain to some Scandinavian rape music. Being the gentleman I am, once I saw that she was collapsing out of the corner of me eye, I dropped onto my back in dramatic exhaustion. I figured I wanted her to start her brand new life off in at least a tie. And I got at least 15 push-ups in.
Saturday, August 18, 2018
Relaxing on the Isle of Ourst
I was fortunate to have a friend from I know from Colorado visiting her home here in Sweden. Her family has a couple cute cottages in this forested western island right on the the banks of a small fjord. It was beautifully relaxing to slow my travel down, chill out, and also get some deeper human interaction after traveling solo for a few weeks.
Karin and her mother ,Helena, were wonderful hosts, picking me up from the bus station, giving me my own cottage, making and cleaning up after all meals, and taking me on a nature, history, and art tours of the island(s). It was refreshing to talk politics, learn some games as well as spend time doing nothing but reading, going for walks, and putting around in a little boat on the fjord.
It is always a treat to be able to spend time with a native home in their home country. I am grateful for the lovely forests, waterways, and my friend, Karin.
Karin and her mother ,Helena, were wonderful hosts, picking me up from the bus station, giving me my own cottage, making and cleaning up after all meals, and taking me on a nature, history, and art tours of the island(s). It was refreshing to talk politics, learn some games as well as spend time doing nothing but reading, going for walks, and putting around in a little boat on the fjord.
It is always a treat to be able to spend time with a native home in their home country. I am grateful for the lovely forests, waterways, and my friend, Karin.
Friday, August 17, 2018
Fjord Cruise the sequel
My 30 hour boat trip from Trondheim to Bergen in Norway was excellent. I got my own cabin and bathroom. I ate 5 big and delicious meals. I had good conversation. I learned much about Norwegian history and culture from attending both presentations. And I learned 3 simple traditional Norwegian folk dances (with tiny old German ladies). It’s a cost effective and relaxing way to move. My only mild disappointment is that I needed to go further north to get a look at the massive steep walled fjords that you’d find in the postcards. The scenery was always beautiful and the southern fjords are stunning. They just are a shallower version, lacking the “majestic” quality I was hoping to float through.
It’s funny that’s I sound like I’m complaining that that’s I’m not being wow’d by something. And yet , I am wow’d by everything.
It’s funny that’s I sound like I’m complaining that that’s I’m not being wow’d by something. And yet , I am wow’d by everything.
Not so Goth in Gothenburg
I thought I’d be perfectly ready to fit in in Gothenburg, Sweden. All my clothes are black. Alas, it’s a sunny day, Goths didn’t come from Gothenburg, rainbows stream everywhere being gay pride day, and I don’t have anything colorful.
Interesting
An older German lady and her husband came up to me on our boat in Norway...
Lady: <German accent> you look like a very interesting persons
Me: I find people that are interesting are people that are interested.
At the time I was just trying to be clever and maybe poetic. After pondering my own words I am gonna stick with it. I find people that are interested in many of the things that this life can offer tend to be be people that are the most intriguing.
I spent much time with this couple going over our amazing world travel stories. These folks also had words to say about all the other boring German “monsters” we were sharing our 2 day cruise with. I guess I was their kind of “interesting”.
Lady: <German accent> you look like a very interesting persons
Me: I find people that are interesting are people that are interested.
At the time I was just trying to be clever and maybe poetic. After pondering my own words I am gonna stick with it. I find people that are interested in many of the things that this life can offer tend to be be people that are the most intriguing.
I spent much time with this couple going over our amazing world travel stories. These folks also had words to say about all the other boring German “monsters” we were sharing our 2 day cruise with. I guess I was their kind of “interesting”.
Tuesday, August 14, 2018
Quintessential Train Trip
I had to look up the exact meaning of quintessential thinking it might mean “essential many times over” - that is not exactly it, but let’s just pretend. Anyway, I believe I read that the 7 hour train ride from Bergen on the west coast of Norway to the capital, Oslo, is a “quintessential” ride. I agree. Stunning!
Bergen Makes Hightlghts
On occasion I find a place that I would truely want to live - at least for a season. In this case, the summer season.
It was a hot and sunny when my boat pulled into this town. I hopped off, walked to my attic rented for he night above a new age, piercing, tattoo, massage shop and dropped off my backpack. I didn’t need a map. The layout of this town is refreshingly obvious being at the end of a fjord with steep mountains shrouding the city center. King crab, shrimp, and all kinds of fish were being served up near the docks while cheerful masses sat in the sun drinking coffee or beer. There is a comfortable balance between a modern city of shiny glass and an old fishing town with thin, winding, cobblestone streets and building that look like they have been standing for many centuries.
After a beer in the sun, I commenced on what ended up being a 4 hour hike up into the mountains towering over the fjord. A maze of paths up and around the mountain was thick with massive trees moss, and ferns. On top there was a beer hall for the adults and an expansive troll forest to climb around the the kids (and adult kids).
So far, Bergen has been the most impressive town I have stayed on this journey. It help to be here on a bright and warm day.
It was a hot and sunny when my boat pulled into this town. I hopped off, walked to my attic rented for he night above a new age, piercing, tattoo, massage shop and dropped off my backpack. I didn’t need a map. The layout of this town is refreshingly obvious being at the end of a fjord with steep mountains shrouding the city center. King crab, shrimp, and all kinds of fish were being served up near the docks while cheerful masses sat in the sun drinking coffee or beer. There is a comfortable balance between a modern city of shiny glass and an old fishing town with thin, winding, cobblestone streets and building that look like they have been standing for many centuries.
After a beer in the sun, I commenced on what ended up being a 4 hour hike up into the mountains towering over the fjord. A maze of paths up and around the mountain was thick with massive trees moss, and ferns. On top there was a beer hall for the adults and an expansive troll forest to climb around the the kids (and adult kids).
So far, Bergen has been the most impressive town I have stayed on this journey. It help to be here on a bright and warm day.
Monday, August 13, 2018
Drivin’ to Walkin’’ to Chillin’
Spent a week with a rental car along in my little world driving throught Iceland. It’s great to have all your things tossed in the trunk and the freedom to take a road wherever. It is also exhausting and has an element of stress, especially when going solo without some navigator wrestling with a map.
It was refreshing to land in Norway without having to deal with driving. While my body was welcoming movement. I also grew tired of lugging my belongings on my shoulders. I spent a good 5 hours traipsing around Trondheim with 30 pounds of crap flailing off my back with another hour hike to my AirBnb at the top of a hill. I hiked that hour back down at 6am the next morning to catch a boat.
I have never not loved being on a boat! From the tiny 4 man sail boats on Lake Dillon, to rafting down mountain rivers, to speedboats on big lakes. Now I am finding this Nordic cruise to be a lovely way to travel, learn, eat, sleep, and check out points of interest all without having to hike with all I own loaded on my back.
It was refreshing to land in Norway without having to deal with driving. While my body was welcoming movement. I also grew tired of lugging my belongings on my shoulders. I spent a good 5 hours traipsing around Trondheim with 30 pounds of crap flailing off my back with another hour hike to my AirBnb at the top of a hill. I hiked that hour back down at 6am the next morning to catch a boat.
I have never not loved being on a boat! From the tiny 4 man sail boats on Lake Dillon, to rafting down mountain rivers, to speedboats on big lakes. Now I am finding this Nordic cruise to be a lovely way to travel, learn, eat, sleep, and check out points of interest all without having to hike with all I own loaded on my back.
Sunday, August 12, 2018
Crusin’ The Fjords
Never been on a cruise. Never been interested. I am now gliding through the dark waters of the wester Fjords of Norway upon the MS Nordlys on a 30 hour tour from Trondheim to Bergen. Other than the handful of grandkids, I may be the youngest chap here with the average age looking to be - I’m gonna go with a 67. And as far as I can tell, I am the only chap from the states. (making me not really a chap) About a dozen are French and the rest speak German. I won’t assume that all are from Germany, but I will guess that most are.
It is not one of those monster cruise ships that double as floating mobile cities. It probably sleeps 200 body’s, including staff. I opted to pay half as much for a cabin without a window since there is great indoor and outdoor viewing and I am only using the cabin to sleep - maybe shower. I kind of feel like DeCaprio taking the poor mans quarters in the hull with little chance of getting out of a sinking ship. I shall stand watch on the bow scanning for icebergs... unless there is an app for that?
It is not one of those monster cruise ships that double as floating mobile cities. It probably sleeps 200 body’s, including staff. I opted to pay half as much for a cabin without a window since there is great indoor and outdoor viewing and I am only using the cabin to sleep - maybe shower. I kind of feel like DeCaprio taking the poor mans quarters in the hull with little chance of getting out of a sinking ship. I shall stand watch on the bow scanning for icebergs... unless there is an app for that?
Church
I have never been religious. I have even gone out of my way to avoid stepping in churches and particularly the Christian kind. The reasons why are are really both stubborn and stupid.
While visiting Oslo, I stepped into their large cathedral not only to take a gander at the inside , but to pray, or at least see what it would be like to pray if I was a true believer. The massive pipe organ rang out some somber tune. Most of the tourists hung in the rear entrance peaking their head in which is normally my mode of operation. This time I marched right up to the front pupil past everyone as if I God could hear me better up there. My prayer began with gratitude. Gratitude for my life, my family, and my friends. Then I moved on to my request. Outside of wishing good health and happiness for the above mentioned family and friends, I only could come up with one specific request. Upon sifting through the news the next day I found that Trump was still alive and in power. I guess God could not hear me over the loud pipe organ.
While visiting Oslo, I stepped into their large cathedral not only to take a gander at the inside , but to pray, or at least see what it would be like to pray if I was a true believer. The massive pipe organ rang out some somber tune. Most of the tourists hung in the rear entrance peaking their head in which is normally my mode of operation. This time I marched right up to the front pupil past everyone as if I God could hear me better up there. My prayer began with gratitude. Gratitude for my life, my family, and my friends. Then I moved on to my request. Outside of wishing good health and happiness for the above mentioned family and friends, I only could come up with one specific request. Upon sifting through the news the next day I found that Trump was still alive and in power. I guess God could not hear me over the loud pipe organ.
Saturday, August 11, 2018
I Osloed Good
A handful of Norwegians accused me of bringing the nasty weaher with me from Iceland. I understand it has been quite beautiful and sunny here until I arrived. I got a couple hours of wandering through town visiting the palace and it’s attached garden as well as a stroll the along the waterfront before clouds and rain came in. When the rain subsided it became windy. These weather events happened separately, thus it was never cold.
I toured an old fortress and found my way up and down a bustling promenade before visiting the acclaimed National Museum. Art museums can be hit or miss for me more often than not based on my mood rather than content. With plenty of time and no reason to be outside, I challenged myself to move slowly, take in the art, and maybe learn something.
The gallery was set up to move through in chronological order starting with a handful of Greek busts then the early Christian takeover depicting flat religious scenes with their golden halos and creepy babies with adult heads. They are quite enjoyable to view just because of how awful thy are.
Each room told a differen take of the ages and I dove into reading about the Renaissance, Impressionism, Naturalism, and all the “neo” versions. They were seemingly a reaction to the previous mode.
Norway’s premier artist, Edward Munch, who’s work at the turn of the previous century has many of his pieces on the wall including “the Madonna” and his most famous, “the Scream” are housed here. I personally was attracted to some of his other work, but it’s normal for me to not see what others do in the majority of well know art. Munch’s paintings seem like they all went throught a filter that would come on someone’s iPhone.
I toured an old fortress and found my way up and down a bustling promenade before visiting the acclaimed National Museum. Art museums can be hit or miss for me more often than not based on my mood rather than content. With plenty of time and no reason to be outside, I challenged myself to move slowly, take in the art, and maybe learn something.
The gallery was set up to move through in chronological order starting with a handful of Greek busts then the early Christian takeover depicting flat religious scenes with their golden halos and creepy babies with adult heads. They are quite enjoyable to view just because of how awful thy are.
Each room told a differen take of the ages and I dove into reading about the Renaissance, Impressionism, Naturalism, and all the “neo” versions. They were seemingly a reaction to the previous mode.
Norway’s premier artist, Edward Munch, who’s work at the turn of the previous century has many of his pieces on the wall including “the Madonna” and his most famous, “the Scream” are housed here. I personally was attracted to some of his other work, but it’s normal for me to not see what others do in the majority of well know art. Munch’s paintings seem like they all went throught a filter that would come on someone’s iPhone.
Friday, August 10, 2018
Dorming in Hostels
While I have always enjoyed the traveler connection and interaction that you find staying in hostels, I find that sharing a dorm room is not my thing. Especially when you pull into the place at 1am sweaty from wondering the streets and carrying your shit all over town and then trying to quietly enter wth the linens just thrown at you and make your bed on the top bunk in a room of people trying to sleep. Not only that, but I am the guy that flips and flops around all night seeking a different comfort every 20 minutes. All hostel bunk beds are squeak or rattle or both. So, I lie there completely wishing I could move and still for as long as I can stand it.
I think I will do myself and everyone else a favor by either trying to find a single room or AirBnb it in someone’s attic or something.
I think I will do myself and everyone else a favor by either trying to find a single room or AirBnb it in someone’s attic or something.
Family Travel
If you go on a serious vacation with your family that has kids under the ag of 13, know that you’re main reason should be that you love to travel and cannot bare the idea of waiting 13 years. If you think taking a 10 year old across Europe, dragging them into museums, cathedrals, or even amazing nature to give them some lasting experience of growth and culture, you are lying to yourself or fooling yourself.
It is tourist season up here in Scandinavia and families are particularly fun to observe. If the young kids are not havigng a complete breakdown or not whining while being physically dragged through another point of interest, they are nearly just shuffling along, glossy eyed and zombified.
They are nuot appreciating the finer points of late Danish Impressionism or Bach being played through a massive pipe organ in a some cathedral or the genius it took to build a shoddy bridge that changed everyone’s life a hundred and fifty years ago. No, they want to play with their friends. And they are not.
I say 13 because that was the age I as was when my folks took me on the whirlwind see-everything-everywhere European tour. I truly loved it, caught the bug, found plenty of things intresting... and did not have the capacity to appreciacte or absorb what was happening like I could later. In fact, I am much more present and engaged while traveling than I was in my 20’s or 30’s.
The teenagers look a lot like I must have. Interested yet awkward - wanting to be there but thinking they would look cooler without their parents.
Whitnessed at the Oslo National Gallery:
Mom: This is a complete waste if you are not going to look at the pictures (paintings).
Kid: <whinny tone> I am looking!
Mom:Well, you need to like one of them.
Kid: I do!
Mom: Which one?
Kid: That one!
Mom: Which one?
Kid: The one with all the stupid people in it!
It is tourist season up here in Scandinavia and families are particularly fun to observe. If the young kids are not havigng a complete breakdown or not whining while being physically dragged through another point of interest, they are nearly just shuffling along, glossy eyed and zombified.
They are nuot appreciating the finer points of late Danish Impressionism or Bach being played through a massive pipe organ in a some cathedral or the genius it took to build a shoddy bridge that changed everyone’s life a hundred and fifty years ago. No, they want to play with their friends. And they are not.
I say 13 because that was the age I as was when my folks took me on the whirlwind see-everything-everywhere European tour. I truly loved it, caught the bug, found plenty of things intresting... and did not have the capacity to appreciacte or absorb what was happening like I could later. In fact, I am much more present and engaged while traveling than I was in my 20’s or 30’s.
The teenagers look a lot like I must have. Interested yet awkward - wanting to be there but thinking they would look cooler without their parents.
Whitnessed at the Oslo National Gallery:
Mom: This is a complete waste if you are not going to look at the pictures (paintings).
Kid: <whinny tone> I am looking!
Mom:Well, you need to like one of them.
Kid: I do!
Mom: Which one?
Kid: That one!
Mom: Which one?
Kid: The one with all the stupid people in it!
Thursday, August 9, 2018
Leaving Iceland
The day is sunny and relatively warm and I spent most of it lying on the grass outside of the airport juggling, reading, and playing a little uke. Not exactly how I wanted to spend Mung last day here, but my rental car was due early and I feel like I did a fine job of catching much of what Iceland has to offer.
I did not do it all. I didn’t want to. I did a lot though. I never made it to a museum. The one I was interested in visiting was the Witch museum (next time) and I figure I could hit a Viking museum in Norway. The land here is the real attraction. I loved it. As the son of a geologist, I geeked out on a place that fully exhibits both the fast creation and slow destruction of the land. Vast lava flows covered with different hues of green moss. Enormous blue glaciers. Both thundering waterfalls and hundreds of others dropping of the edge of the steep valley walls. Volcanic cones, craters, lava tubes, geysers, and steam baths. All powerfully impressive.
The Iceland folk are equally impressive. They are absolutely kind and helpful in evey way. Their smiles feel genuine and their attitude cheery. Maybe they are grumpy during the big winter, but they are great at celebrating the long summer days. They look comfortable and happy - quite the opposite of the fearful and angry America.
Thank you Iceland- you have spoiled me.
Out
I did not do it all. I didn’t want to. I did a lot though. I never made it to a museum. The one I was interested in visiting was the Witch museum (next time) and I figure I could hit a Viking museum in Norway. The land here is the real attraction. I loved it. As the son of a geologist, I geeked out on a place that fully exhibits both the fast creation and slow destruction of the land. Vast lava flows covered with different hues of green moss. Enormous blue glaciers. Both thundering waterfalls and hundreds of others dropping of the edge of the steep valley walls. Volcanic cones, craters, lava tubes, geysers, and steam baths. All powerfully impressive.
The Iceland folk are equally impressive. They are absolutely kind and helpful in evey way. Their smiles feel genuine and their attitude cheery. Maybe they are grumpy during the big winter, but they are great at celebrating the long summer days. They look comfortable and happy - quite the opposite of the fearful and angry America.
Thank you Iceland- you have spoiled me.
Out
Wednesday, August 8, 2018
Me and Mr. Garmin
It can be a long quiet drive looping this island. It’s silly that it is a welcome relief when my electronic GPS friend Mr. Garmin chimes in. Sometimes he stays quiet for long periods at a time and I get concerned. I then purposefully turn off in a random direction to make sure he is still hanging out... and to make sure I am still on course.
Sometimes I get a word it (usually a curse word), but for the most part it’s a one way conversation and majority of that is him badgering me where to turn - “800 meters take a left - 500 meters take a left - 250 meters take a left - take a left”. I am continually reminded of driving with my father.
Mr. Garmin does not always get it right. Example : I type in the name of the volcanic crater lake I want to visit. Next thing I know I am taking my economy compact car up a maze of Jeep trails through a dense forest. 500 meters take a left, 800 meters take a right... I am pretty far out there when Mr. Garmin says, “stop car and navigate on foot”.
I am still not sure what I could have typed in that would have gotten me to the drive up parking lot at the top of the other side of the crater where all the other tourists went. My dad would have probably hike through the forest up the backside of a volcano.
Mr. Garmin is not all bad. He gifted me the information that said crater has great acoustics in the bottom and that a stage is sometimes built on lake in the center to house concerts, including a performance by Iceland’s pop star Bjork in 1986. Now I know. Now you know.
Sometimes I get a word it (usually a curse word), but for the most part it’s a one way conversation and majority of that is him badgering me where to turn - “800 meters take a left - 500 meters take a left - 250 meters take a left - take a left”. I am continually reminded of driving with my father.
Mr. Garmin does not always get it right. Example : I type in the name of the volcanic crater lake I want to visit. Next thing I know I am taking my economy compact car up a maze of Jeep trails through a dense forest. 500 meters take a left, 800 meters take a right... I am pretty far out there when Mr. Garmin says, “stop car and navigate on foot”.
I am still not sure what I could have typed in that would have gotten me to the drive up parking lot at the top of the other side of the crater where all the other tourists went. My dad would have probably hike through the forest up the backside of a volcano.
Mr. Garmin is not all bad. He gifted me the information that said crater has great acoustics in the bottom and that a stage is sometimes built on lake in the center to house concerts, including a performance by Iceland’s pop star Bjork in 1986. Now I know. Now you know.
Songs for the Moist
Most cars I am familiar with has there various windshield wiper speeds and usually one that wipes occasionally. My car here has the normal back and fourth with escalating velocities as well as five different setting to change the gap time for said occasional wipe. This is a great setup for Iceland due to the many layers of wetness one will drive through. Not only have I used all five settings many times, I have become a master at picking the correct setting based on the water collection. Light fog. Thick fog. Drizzle. Erratic gusts. Splash back. There is nothing I cannot handle.
Although these settings do not go back and fourth like a metronome, each still has a tempo of its own. After a week of driving in rain I have found myself composing different songs for each setting complete with bass, melody, counter points, and solos. It’s a five piece symphony in my head constructed out of boredom and the need to see clearly.
If I ever run out of bad ideas... I may resort to writing an album inspire by windshield wiper blades entitled - Songs For The Moist.
Although these settings do not go back and fourth like a metronome, each still has a tempo of its own. After a week of driving in rain I have found myself composing different songs for each setting complete with bass, melody, counter points, and solos. It’s a five piece symphony in my head constructed out of boredom and the need to see clearly.
If I ever run out of bad ideas... I may resort to writing an album inspire by windshield wiper blades entitled - Songs For The Moist.
Tuesday, August 7, 2018
Icelandic archetecture
I have tried to come up with a list or words to describe the archetecture in Iceland and have decided I can get away with one. Box.
Square and rectangle tied for a close second. They are not going all out trying to wow anyone with their structures. Mostly colored in dirty pastels, the man made dwellings built here appear to lean heavily toward functionality while turning their back to providing aesthetics.
That’s fine. That is not what anyone is here for anyway. We all just want a nice cozy, easy to warm hut to climb into at the end of the day. For the most part it all feels clean and uncomplicated.
Square and rectangle tied for a close second. They are not going all out trying to wow anyone with their structures. Mostly colored in dirty pastels, the man made dwellings built here appear to lean heavily toward functionality while turning their back to providing aesthetics.
That’s fine. That is not what anyone is here for anyway. We all just want a nice cozy, easy to warm hut to climb into at the end of the day. For the most part it all feels clean and uncomplicated.
An Ode to Aluvia
oh Aluvia, beloved and powerful goddess of wind, how I adore thee. Let me count they ways:
1. It was pretty funny when you blew that woman over today.
2. I’ve never seen a Not-a-waterfall - where the whole river spouting out went straight up in the air. I guess that was cool.
So, 2
1. It was pretty funny when you blew that woman over today.
2. I’ve never seen a Not-a-waterfall - where the whole river spouting out went straight up in the air. I guess that was cool.
So, 2
Blown Away
Of course was completely blown away at the magnificence of the glaciers and icebergs. I was also blown away by the wind. I could have taken a bigger hint after reading at the rental car place that the majority of vehicle damage was either opening your door and having it fly away. Or having the paint sandblasted off.
I tried to take a picture of all the brave poeple hiking out to the icebergs leaning heavily into the wind. Not sure it it will come out as silly as it looked. And... yes!... I totally witnessed a person get blown over. It is true that she appeared to be the least athletic individual I have encountered on my trip, alas, it is also true that I had challenging moments remaining on my feet.
I tried to take a picture of all the brave poeple hiking out to the icebergs leaning heavily into the wind. Not sure it it will come out as silly as it looked. And... yes!... I totally witnessed a person get blown over. It is true that she appeared to be the least athletic individual I have encountered on my trip, alas, it is also true that I had challenging moments remaining on my feet.
Cold, Wet, and Windy
Cold and wet has been yucky. Now that heavy winds have kicked up is downright miserable. As I make my way down towards the south coast jamming out to the A-Ha and Wham on the only staticky station that I can receive, I shiver each time I pass those hearty adventurers cycling in all their rain gear while battling the fierce wind. They are probably camping in this shit as well. I understand this has been one of the coldest summers Iceland has had to put up with in ages. I have also heard from others that the weather is usually crap.
I broke down and purchased a thick wool hat a few days ago. I find it funny that I as reluctant to pay $29.99 in the states buy a light raincoat. I would have had to pay hundreds here.
The elements forced me to subscribe to comfort food. So I am having a pizza and beer for lunch. This is also to help my courage to go hike out onto Iceland’s largest glacier, which I have in view of front my current lunch stop.
I’m kind of in a long stretch in the middle of nowhere and the few accomidations in the area are booked. At least I have a compact car to sleep in tonight. These are the sacrifices you get to take when you don’t pay big $’s for comfort of the everything-included group tours.
Okay - I’m up and away.
I broke down and purchased a thick wool hat a few days ago. I find it funny that I as reluctant to pay $29.99 in the states buy a light raincoat. I would have had to pay hundreds here.
The elements forced me to subscribe to comfort food. So I am having a pizza and beer for lunch. This is also to help my courage to go hike out onto Iceland’s largest glacier, which I have in view of front my current lunch stop.
I’m kind of in a long stretch in the middle of nowhere and the few accomidations in the area are booked. At least I have a compact car to sleep in tonight. These are the sacrifices you get to take when you don’t pay big $’s for comfort of the everything-included group tours.
Okay - I’m up and away.
Monday, August 6, 2018
Land of Fire and Ice
Land of fire and ice... and water. Traveling through the north and eastern fjords I came upon a whole lot of water. Massive glacial cut valleys were streaming with white rushing waterfalls while the fast moving, high flowing rivers in the bottom forced their way through to dig deep forges. The final waterfall I visited was the most powerful one in all of Europe. The sheer volume of water and the crushing drop is indescribable. My pictures and video probably do it little justice as well.
I got big time lost twice today, yet both were a treat. I made it through ornate lava flows, steaming mountains of hot sulfur, around lakes, through volcanic craters, and over misty highlands that at moments could have been a multicolored moon/mars scape. I also to the wrong fjord to my next AirBnb getting me in 2 hours later than expected.
12 hours of driving and hiking around has me beat. I will try harder tomorrow.
I got big time lost twice today, yet both were a treat. I made it through ornate lava flows, steaming mountains of hot sulfur, around lakes, through volcanic craters, and over misty highlands that at moments could have been a multicolored moon/mars scape. I also to the wrong fjord to my next AirBnb getting me in 2 hours later than expected.
12 hours of driving and hiking around has me beat. I will try harder tomorrow.
Sunday, August 5, 2018
Wales Watch Out
I am up on the northern end of Iceland after a smooth day casually meandering through the countryside. Made some fun stops along the way - learned a few Viking tales. The drive was easier than I expected. Whale watching was not on my agenda. In fact I typically scoff at paying someone to hopefully get you a glimpse of a tail flipping out of the water. But since they have a midnight sun tour...
I walk into the ticketing office for the tour as a handful of people were being sent out to find that tonight’s tour was fully booked, but there were a few spots open in the morning. This would get me out of town no earlier than noon and I wanted to have been to many other sites down the road by then.
When I came out of their restroom and found all but one lady gone just before locking up I asked, “if I show up here at 8:45 what is the chance I might jump on the boat due to a cancellation?” She got on her cell phone, called the captain, made some crazy Icelandic speak - boom! I’m on the boat!
Funny that I never considered doing a whale watching tour and now I really hope to see some massive whalege.
I walk into the ticketing office for the tour as a handful of people were being sent out to find that tonight’s tour was fully booked, but there were a few spots open in the morning. This would get me out of town no earlier than noon and I wanted to have been to many other sites down the road by then.
When I came out of their restroom and found all but one lady gone just before locking up I asked, “if I show up here at 8:45 what is the chance I might jump on the boat due to a cancellation?” She got on her cell phone, called the captain, made some crazy Icelandic speak - boom! I’m on the boat!
Funny that I never considered doing a whale watching tour and now I really hope to see some massive whalege.
$$$$$$$$$
I thought about busting out the typical documentation on the prices in Iceland. Rather, I generated a simple formula that is both descriptive and accurate:
Iceland = $$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$
Iceland = $$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$
The Golden Circle
I got a late start, but considering its daytime always, I still ventured out to the day trip around the “Golden Circle”. Armed with my GPS unit I set it on a tour that included powerful waterfalls, exploding geysers, vast glaciers, and a major crack in the earth where the North American and Eurasian tech tonic plates separate. Not only did the robotic voice tell me where to turn, it also passed on stories and history that makes me feel I could come up with some answers if interrogated in Icelandic trivia.
The loop is easy and close enough to Reykjavik that there were hoards people taking in all the sights through their GoPro mounted selfie sticks. I looked like a rookie with my old iPhone 5.
Rather than making my way back into Reykjavik, I decided to get a head start on the big loop (Ring Road) and stayed a couple hours away out in the countryside. Finally took my first much needed shower and passed out hard.
I have a lot of driving ahead of me.
The loop is easy and close enough to Reykjavik that there were hoards people taking in all the sights through their GoPro mounted selfie sticks. I looked like a rookie with my old iPhone 5.
Rather than making my way back into Reykjavik, I decided to get a head start on the big loop (Ring Road) and stayed a couple hours away out in the countryside. Finally took my first much needed shower and passed out hard.
I have a lot of driving ahead of me.
Jet lag + stupid
Exhausted from travel with little sleep you would have thought I would crash for a day. After writing my last post I planned on crashing out. Instead, I joined a small crew from the hostel to “tour” the Reykjavik nightlife. Aparently the Friday evening party starts at midnight. I lost track of them quickly in a 3 story bar/club, but found plenty of locals interested in conversation. Most of them were the tall striking dudes. I may have been getting hit on, but I did not care. And, as usual, it seems like I can rarely escape a bar in a foreign country without befriending a handful of wild Russians wanting to buy drinks and talk about each other’s bullshit government.
When the bar closed it was daylight. It may have been only 3 am but the sun was up and it felt like 7am. The street were full of Icelanders the continued to party on. I finally called it quits and spent a stupid amount of time walking back to the hostel going all the wrong directions nearly helpless without the garmin gps using a soggy map that I believe was meant as a restaurant place mat.
It felt a lot like my early days in Germany. I’m still a rock star almost 30 years later.
When the bar closed it was daylight. It may have been only 3 am but the sun was up and it felt like 7am. The street were full of Icelanders the continued to party on. I finally called it quits and spent a stupid amount of time walking back to the hostel going all the wrong directions nearly helpless without the garmin gps using a soggy map that I believe was meant as a restaurant place mat.
It felt a lot like my early days in Germany. I’m still a rock star almost 30 years later.
Saturday, August 4, 2018
Icelanding
It’s nearly midnight and I’m sitting at the downstairs bar at the ground floor of my hostel in Iceland while the many layers of clouds still allow the light to drip through the remains of a rainy, dark, and mildly windy day. I landed here at 7am feeling a silly sleeplessness that you get after time traveling eastward aroubd the globe without any naps, even after taking my friends prescribed “Zambian” (Ambian and Zanax) for my flight. I am reminded why I do this - why I charge into the great adventure of wonderlust all by myself?
I played the big tourist card upon arrival and went to the pricy tourist trap of soaking in the lovely “blue lagoon” geothermal springs, drank 3 beers for breakfast, slept for 2 hours in my rental car, embarrassingly leaned on my $10 a day rented Garmin GPS to find my way to my bunk I signed up for at the Oddsson in downtown Reykjavik.
The usual discomfort, fear, regret hits me - to am so alone. I prescribe myself the usual remedy and I walk around quickly getter my lost in a strange town. I had to re-trace my steps quickly to get back and poop.
My nap was loaded wth a weird dreams of people l have known in a timeline of nearly my whole past. Upon awakening I struggled with the dilemma of just staying in my bunk or aiming for some adventure.
You know the answer.So, I headed toward the town centrer of where a come across a place that was loaded with colored hair, wide body piercings, and... well, just my kind of folk. I was pulled into what looked like a beer hall by a lady tearing up a ukulele version of “Creep” a la Radiohead sontering throught the crowd.
I was fortunate enough to spend me next few hours engaged in a two hour impromptu performance by Amanda Palmer. yes - I totally have a monster crush on this singer, performer, composer, piano pounding, ukulele strumming artista. She finished her 2 hour free show with a kick-ass ukulele song suggesting if more folks played the “uke” ...???
Now I have to find a way to quietly slip into my 6 bed share hostel room gracefully without bummeing out the 5 Russian ladies trying to sleep.
Oh - these Vikings are stunning!
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